Four hundred years back all
the pungent dishes of South India were
prepared using pepper only
By
P.R.Ramachander
I am sure you would all be surprised to know that Chilles were
first brought by Portuguese to India
(around 1500 AD) and South iNdia must have started cultivating it around 16th
century. There is no doubt at all that Indian cuisine is many centuries older. But as of now almost all
pungent dishes in South India get their
pungency by the use of
either red or green chillies and
almost 90% of the north Indian dishes get
the pungency from use of pepper.
So there is little doubt that in South India also pungency was being added
to the dishes by adding
pepper. If you need any
proof for that it can be got
from the recipes of dishes being prepared for annual death ceremonies in the homes of Brahmins , where
all dishes are
prepared even today by using pepper . I want to talk today about
the main courses in vegetarian houses
using Tamarind.
Before the
invention of Sambar and rasam of the present day , possibly
about 400 years back in Tanjore
by the chefs of king SAmbaji of Tanjore,
the main tamarind dishes in South India were
1.Andhra Pradesh-
Pulusu
2.Karnataka -Huli
3.Tamil Nadu –either Poricha Kuzhambhu
or Vathal kuzhambhu or
Milagu Kozhambu
And 4. Kerala
pulungari
AS of now though these
dishes are being prepared , they get their pungency from Chillies.
About 4 centuries back they must have
got their pungency from Pepper only.
IN present
day except for dishes prepared
for Sradha in Brahmin homes all pungent
dishes are prepared by adding
Chillies. The Nambudiri cusine till about 100
years back was based on pepper. Even today Kalan and Erissery are prepared
by them using pepper .
Apart from
these the Poricha Kuzhambu(some thing
like pitlai of Tamil Nadu) in Palakkad eyer homes is usually prepared
only using pepper . (http://palakkadcooking.blogspot.in/2015/02/poricha-kuzhambu.html)
Possibly the other traditional main dishes
we prepare without chilles are Milagu Kuzhambhu , Milagu Rasam, Jeera rasam etc
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